Question: I've been hunting whitetails in Michigan for some time, and I'd like to go west to hunt elk or mule deer. I've got a 60-pound BowTech Stalker that is six or seven years old, and I'm wondering if I should upgrade. -- Andrew Hartzler, via e-mail

Answer: If you're comfortable with your current setup, you'll do just fine. You don't say much about your bow, but a 60-pound draw weight is sufficient for elk and mule deer. That said, new models do offer refinements sometimes lacking in older models. It doesn't hurt to have more arrow speed and kinetic energy when it comes to penetrating an elk or making a longer-than-usual shot on a mule deer buck. If you decide to upgrade, don't be tempted to go too light with your arrow weight. For elk and big, tough mule deer, it's a good idea to shoot an arrow that weighs at least 400 grains, including a broadhead. Good luck and enjoy the West. -- Curt Wells, Equipment Editor

Q: Two of my friends and I are going on a bison hunt in October, and I was wondering what kind of broadhead we should use for this big animal? We all use the new Rage for hunting whitetails and like the heads very much. -- Michael Smith, Sterling Heights, Michigan, via e-mail

Answer: Rage mechanicals work very well, but bison are tough, heavy-boned animals that are difficult to take with a bow. If you stick with Rage, I'd suggest going with the two-blade model, because I suspect it will penetrate better than the three-blade and be less likely to get hung up on a bison's thick ribs. Another good option, and probably my personal choice, would be a head with a lead cutting edge like the Magnus Stinger, Muzzy Phantom, or Steel Force Sabertooth. Remember -- big animals like bison can be dangerous, too, so a quick, clean kill is especially important. -- Jeff Frey, Online Gear Advisor

Question: What are your thoughts on the Mathews Drenalin, regarding weight and quietness? -- Gregg Padie, via e-mail

Answer: I've shot several animals with my Drenalin, including two caribou, and I think it's a great bow. The mass weight of just 3.85 pounds is really nice in the high country or on any hunt that requires hiking long distances. I've found it to be very smooth-drawing, quick, and quiet, with surprisingly little hand shock considering the light weight. In my opinion, you can't go wrong with this bow. -- Curt Wells, Equipment Editor

Question: I'm just starting to develop an interest in archery and would like to start hunting. I recently purchased a Jennings Black Lightning at a flea market, and it needs to be restrung. Where can I get information on how to restring it? -- Michael Utley, via e-mail

Answer: To be honest, your situation is precisely how NOT to get into bowhunting. Many well-meaning hunters get Uncle Bob's bow out of the attic and decide to start bowhunting. More often than not, the bow doesn't fit them and they shoot poorly, become disenchanted, and then quit. A bow must have the correct draw length for the individual hunter, and if the bow you purchased needs new strings, it may be difficult to tell what the draw length is, or if it's adjustable to your body. If it's an older bow (I'm not familiar with that model), you may not be able to find the correct strings and cables.

My advice is to take the bow to an archery pro shop and ask them to determine your draw length, the draw length of your bow, and if it's adjustable. If they match up, you can order strings and cables (some bows have the lengths on the label) and go from there. You'll need arrows that are correctly spined as well, so you can see there are some factors to consider. -- Curt Wells, Equipment Editor

Question: I enjoy predator hunting and feel that it helps me hone my calling and stalking skills. However, sometimes when I'm hunting, the temps are extremely cold, say -40 degrees. Will this damage my bow -- or me? -- Bryan Syvret, via e-mail

Answer: You don't really have to worry about your bow in cold weather. Modern bows are able to handle the cold as long as you keep the cam grooves free of impacted snow or ice that could derail your bowstrings. Of course, once your body and the limbs get cold and stiff, your draw weight may feel a little tougher than you're used to. That can lead to injuring your shoulder or elbow, so be careful if you're not warmed up. Your best bet is to do some practice shooting when it's ultra-cold, so you know if the temperatures, and all the warm clothing you'll be wearing, will affect your point of impact. If you can go out and consistently arrow coyotes in subzero weather, you're a better bowhunter than I. -- Curt Wells, Equipment Editor

Question: I just booked a spring bear hunt in Sasketchewan for 2009. This will be my first time hunting black bears. Can you give this rookie some tips on how to judge a bear's size and sex? Thanks. -- K.W., via e-mail

Answer: Bears are very hard to field judge, indeed. And even seasoned bear hunters get fooled from time to time. Most outfitters use 55-gallon drums at their bait sites, and these drums are invaluable tools for judging a bear's size. If a bear's back -- standing on all fours -- is over the second ring on the barrel, it's a decent-sized bear. If his back is even with, or above, the top of the barrel, he's a shooter. If your outfitter doesn't use a bait barrel, you can mark trees around the bait, 36 inches up from the ground, for judging size.

Determining a bear's sex can be another difficult task. If it has a short snout, round ears set wide apart, and it's broad in the shoulders and chest, odds are you are looking at a boar. Conversely, if the nose is long and the ears are pointed and close together -- like a German shepherd -- it's most likely a sow. Boars also have a crease running down the center of their forehead. This crease becomes more pronounced with age. So, if you can see a clearly defined crease on the bear's head, you are looking at a mature boar, and one that has a good chance of making the Pope and Young record book. Good luck and be safe. -- Brian Fortenbaugh, Assistant Editor

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