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Ask Bowhunter (October/November 2008)
Questions answered include photoperiod vs. moon phases, Alaskan guide recommendations for grizzly treestand hunts, buying a left-handed youth bow, quick scouts, string loop damage, and determining the right spine of arrow for your bow.
By Staff Report
Question: I enjoyed C.J. Winand's latest Hunting Whitetails column, "Whitetail Myths & Truths," in the August/September 2008 issue of Bowhunter. I was curious, though, if C.J. has ever debated Charlie Alsheimer on photoperiod vs. moon phases. I've heard Charlie speak numerous times and really enjoyed his seminars. But, after planning vacation time around his theories and not seeing anything, I think I'll stick with what C.J. and other deer biologists promote. -- Steve Sheriff, via e-mail
Answer: Thanks for your comments on the column. Like you, I really enjoy Charlie's talks. In fact, he's still one of my favorite outdoor writers; we just differ on rutting times. Like I said in the column, the moon theory is just that -- a theory. As for the seeking, chasing, and breeding time periods, they only exist in magazine articles. -- C.J. Winand, Contributor


Question: Do you know of any Alaskan guide services that regularly use treestands to hunt grizzly/brown bears? -- David Johnson, via e-mail
Answer: Outfitter Ray Williams, with Iliamna Bruin Adventures, hunts brown bears with treestands. His stands overlook spots where bears fish for spawning sockeye salmon. It's pretty exciting stuff, and can produce close shots on bears -- with relative safety. For information on this hunt, contact Mark Buehrer at Bowhunting Safari Consultants at (419) 943-3743, bohuntrm@watchtv.net. Mark can give you other leads for similar hunts. -- Dwight Schuh, Editor


Question: I want to buy a bow for my nine-year-old boy. He's left-handed, and I'm having a hard time finding a bow for him. Do they make a bow that can be for left and right-handed people? -- Amy Hollingsworth, via e-mail
Answer: There are many options on the market for left-handers. The important thing is to determine your son's dominant eye. Have him hold his outstretched arm in front of him and, with both eyes open, place his thumb over a distant object, such as a light switch on the other side of a room. While holding his thumb on the spot, have him close his left eye. If his thumb is still on the spot, he is right-eye dominant. If his thumb is not on the spot, he may be left-eye dominant. Have him do it again and close his right eye, and if his thumb is still on the spot, he is, indeed, left-eye dominant and should shoot a left-handed bow. This isn't a scientific way to determine eye dominance, but it is usually close.
If he does need a left-handed bow, you have many choices, including the Genesis Pro, Browning Micro Midas, Hoyt Trykon Jr., and Diamond Edge. Also, Parker Bows offers the Buckshot, and they have a program that allows you to send the bow in, and for $50, they will upgrade the limbs and draw modules as your son grows.
To answer your last question, no one makes a bow that is convertible from right to left-handed -- as far as I know. Thanks and good luck. -- Curt Wells, Equipment Editor


Question: I have a quota hunt permit for a 6,000-acre area that has not been hunted until recently. Only bucks with nine or more points may be taken. The permit only allows for one day of scouting prior to the hunt. With such a short period of time to scout, what is the best way to find a good spot? -- Daniel Cline, via e-mail
Answer: A deer's favorite four-letter word is EDGE. Wherever you maximize your vegetation and topographical edge, you'll find more deer. Aerial and topographical maps will help you determine the best area for your treestand. Good luck! -- C.J. Winand, Contributor


Question: An employee at my local pro shop recently told me that a string loop will damage my string just as much as a release would. Is this true? -- Jake Morrison, via e-mail
Answer: A string loop does not make your string serving immune to wear. Some loops, especially those with small-diameter loop material, can wear into the serving over time. Thicker loop material isn't as prone to this problem. I prefer the heavier loop anyway, because it's stiffer and maintains its shape better than the small diameter white loop material, making it easier to clip on my release. Still, I don't believe a string loop will damage a string serving as quickly as a release attached directly to the string. Of course, some releases are harder on serving than others.
All that said, serving wear is only one factor in choosing a loop. A bigger factor is the even draw pressure applied to both sides of the arrow nock, as opposed to the upward pressure of a release under the nock. I've found this to make my tuning easier because the location of my loop seems to be less critical than is the position of a nocking point under all that upward pressure. But maybe that's just me.
A string loop also reduces the torque that's imparted to the string. Tied correctly, a string loop won't come untied. I use one on all my bows. You'll have to make the decision for yourself, but now you know how I feel about string loops. Good luck and take care. -- Curt Wells, Equipment Editor


Question: I'm really confused. What's the best way to determine the right spine of arrow for your bow? I haven't found a pro shop around here that can give me an honest answer. They just want to sell me what they have in stock. I shoot a Hoyt bow set at 65 pounds. My draw length is 28 inches and I use a release. -- Scott Morrow, via e-mail
Answer: Every arrow manufacturer has a shaft-selection chart that provides you with a place to start, and most of these charts can be found on their websites. You simply insert your arrow length, draw weight, point weight, and other factors, and it will come up with a list of arrow shafts for your setup.
For example, with your setup (assuming you are shooting a 100-grain tip), Easton's Shaft Selector suggests their ST Axis shafts in size 400, or aluminum arrows in 2216 or 2314. The Carbon Express Arrow Selection Chart indicates you are on the borderline. If you shoot a 27-inch arrow, you'll need Carbon Express 250s. But if you shoot a 28-inch arrow, you might need 350s. Gold Tip's website suggests you use their 5575 or 400 size arrow shafts.
Again, these charts are simply a starting point for determining the correct spine you'll need in your arrows. You may find you and your bow will have to deviate from these charts to find the right arrow. You can experiment by increasing or decreasing the draw weight of your bow to see if it affects arrow flight. A good pro shop will make sure you have correctly spined arrows, and all arrow manufacturers should have an arrow that will work for you. Good luck. -- Curt Wells, Equipment Editor


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