Q
I’m in the market for a bow vise and was wondering which one you use on your TV show. Thanks.
–Paul Bacallo, via e-mail

A
We’ve used a number of ex-cellent bow vises on our program, including those from Sure-Loc (www.sureloc.com) and Apple Archery (www.applearchery.com). During “Tech Talk” segments, I’ve used the R.S. Bow Vise (www.rsbowvise.com) and the Pro Bow Vise (www.ram-products.com), which I have in my shop. The R.S. Bow Vise is quicker, but the Pro Bow Vise is more adjustable. Either works very well for most any need. Hope this helps and thanks for tuning in.
–Curt Wells, Equipment Editor

Q
I’m trying to find a mule deer hunting video from the early 90′s with Dwight Schuh and Larry D. Jones. I can’t remember the name of it, but I do remember they used llamas to pack in and out. Keep up the good work.
–Robert Poor, via e-mail

A
That was Buck Fever, with Larry D. Jones and me in Nevada. It was produced by Wilderness Sounds. If you go to http://www.jonescalls.com/catalog_2008.pdf, you will see it listed in the Jones Calls catalog. My daughters, who are now 28 and 30 years old, are looking a little younger in that video. It brings back good memories.
–Dwight Schuh, Editor

Q
When switching to a short axle-to-axle bow, how do you choose a stabilizer? Soon I’ll be switching from a Mathews Switchback to a DXT. Are there any differences in stabilizer performance when moving to a shorter bow?
–Marc, via e-mail

A
Stabilizers are sort of an enigma and they have several purposes — to add weight to a bow, to balance a bow, and to reduce vibration and noise. Some perform one of these tasks, others perform all three. Most hunters use stabilizers to reduce vibration and game-spooking bow noise.

Some stabilizers absorb vibration with mass weight alone. Others do it through proprietary materials inside the stabilizer, or they’re built with vibration-dampening materials such as LimbSaver’s Navcom. Still others combine technologies. I cannot predict which stabilizer design will perform best on your DXT.

I suggest you take your bow to an archery pro shop and shoot it with various stabilizers attached. Some bowhunters say they see no need for a stabilizer. Most, however, do find a benefit. My best advice is to avoid the extremes — radically large, small, light, or heavy. You might find the stabilizer on your Switchback will work just fine on the DXT.
–Curt Wells, Equipment Editor

Q
I am a young bowhunter and have had no one to teach me the tricks of the trade. I’ve seen a lot of deer in the area where my stand is located, but no deer have come closer than 70 yards. How can I get the deer in closer?
–Jared Jobe, via e-mail

A
The key isn’t getting the deer closer to your stand, but getting your stand closer to the deer. To do that, scout hard to find good trails, scrapes, rubs, and narrow funnels (for example, where a large wooded area funnels into a smaller strip of woods or a strip of woods runs between two fields), and set up there. If you’ve observed deer consistently traveling just out of range of your stand, use your observations to guide you to fresh stand sites.

Above all, make sure you always place your stand downwind of deer approach routes. Deer have super noses, and if they catch the slightest whiff of you, they will detour your stand well out of bow range. Also, always walk to and from your stand so that deer cannot cross your entry trail on their way by your stand. Finally, be persistent. If you stick with it and learn, you will enjoy bowhunting success.
–Dr. Dave Samuel, Conservation Editor

Q
I have been shooting traditional bows for over 20 years, and I’d like to switch to a compound. My search so far is pointing toward the BowTech General or Admiral. What are your thoughts on these two bows? Are there any others you would recommend?
–James Gurney, via e-mail

A
You will be impressed with today’s bows, including the BowTech(www.bowtecharchery.com) models you have mentioned. Other new models to check are the Hoyt AlphaMax (www.hoyt.com), Mathews Reezen (www.mathewsinc.com), Bear Archery Truth 2 (www.beararcheryproducts.com), Martin Firecat (www.martinarchery.com), and PSE Bow Madness (www.pse-archery.com), to name a few.

The fact is, all bow makers these days produce good products. Your decision boils down to your style of hunting, your physical stature, price (something that fits your budget), and other variables. However, I would recommend that you consider some of the following:

Parallel limbs are soft shooting and quiet, and the bows are generally compact and convenient. What kind of cam system is best — single cam, hybrid, or two cam? The single cam tends to be smoother and may require less maintenance. It may be slower, on average, than two-cam models, but that can vary greatly by design.

Generally, speed is overrated, and it always comes at a price. Bows with low brace heights (under 7 inches) tend to produce faster arrow speeds — because of the longer power stroke — than bows with higher brace heights, but they’re often harder to shoot consistently. The draw cycle on speed bows tends to be rougher and less pleasing.

As in anything, you’re wise to avoid the extremes. An axle-to-axle length between 33 and 36 inches is a good place to start, and a 60-pound peak draw weight is plenty for all North American game.

Above all, make sure the bow fits you. Unlike traditional bows, compounds have a set draw length. See Randy Ulmer’s Shooting Tip (page 29) for thoughts on draw length. Shoot several models, and eventually you’ll find a bow that feels just right to you.
–Curt Wells, Equipment Editor