Arrows: Kinetic Energy vs. Momentum

Blayne Kesse, Cummings, Kansas: “I shoot a Hoyt MT Sport bow set at 70 lbs. and 28 inches. I’m currently shooting Easton Carbon Epic arrows weighing 8.17 GPI with a 100 grain tip. I previously shot Carbon Express Terminator arrows weighing 10.7 GPI, however, after shooting through a chronograph I noticed that the heavy arrows were lobbing along at only 250 feet per second (fps), and the lighter ones are up around 270-275 fps. Should I shoot a heavier arrow that flies slower but carries more kinetic energy or shoot a lighter arrow that flies much faster but carries less kinetic energy? Which aspect of arrow flight is more important? Or, should I try the best of both worlds and shoot a 8-9 GPI arrow? Thanks for the help.”

This is always a debate among archers. In part it depends on what you’re hunting and I’m assuming it’s probably whitetailed deer. In that case either arrow will give you good results and the faster set-up might help with the problem of string jumping provided you can shoot it accurately. If you were going after elk where two-hole penetration is paramount, I’d suggest the heavier arrow. That’s because kinetic energy it not the only indicator. That formula is only a reference. Momentum it probably a larger factor. A light arrow will slow down, or lose its initial energy quicker than a heavier arrow. That’s why bowhunters who pursue dangerous game such as large bears and cape buffalo, go with very heavy arrows. However they don’t have to deal with the problem of string jumping. If you’re hunting antelope or nervous whitetails a little extra speed doesn’t hurt as long as you don’t go too light.

In the overall scheme of things the 20 to 25 fps you gain with the lighter arrow is probably not enough to make a difference. A bow shooting a heavier arrow will be quieter also. Like most things, either extreme is not the way to go. A compromise would certainly work but I wouldn’t go buy new arrows as you’ll be fine with the setup you have.

Shooting A Caliper Release With A String Loop

Casey Thompson, Potsdam, New York: “I just got a new bow and started shooting a string loop. I like the loop but my caliper release tears it up too much. I’ve had the bow for just a few days and I’m already putting on a new loop. I’ve seen releases just for loops and was wondering if you knew of any good ones? Do they actually work better than the caliper? Thanks.”

You don’t say what kind of release you’re using but I suspect there is a sharp edge or a burr in the jaws. I have been shooting a caliper release (a Tru-Fire Hurricane Buckle) for years and have never had to change a string loop because of wear, or even noticed any wear on my loop. Any quality caliper release should work fine but the ones designed for string loops are great also. Other good releases are made by Cobra, Scott and Tru-Ball.

It could also be a problem with your string loop material. If it is designed to be used for a string loop then the release is the problem. If you’re using some sort of string that isn’t tough enough, it just might be wearing out.

I went to a string loop quite a few years back and wouldn’t change a thing. Good luck and take care.

How Can I Become A Professional Hunter?

P.K., Goshen, Ohio: “I’ve always enjoyed hunting and consider myself a very good shot. What steps would I have to take to become a professional hunter?”

What is a “professional bowhunter?” Here we will define that term as “making a living in the hunting industry.” People arrive at this goal in different ways. Chuck Adams, for example, developed his career primarily as a writer, and he has built on that foundation. Myles Keller gained a reputation as a whitetail hunter first, and from that beginning he gained endorsement, speaking, and writing opportunities.

Every year, successful hunters bombard archery companies with proposals. Some companies may provide equipment to such hunters; a few offer pro-staff positions to exceptional individuals. But hunters on company payrolls just to hunt are as rare as turkey teeth.

You can start by sending success stories and field photos of yourself and game animals to archery magazines and manufacturers. That might help you attract some attention. Giving seminars at local and regional outdoor events also gets your name out there. But, again, remember — there is no free lunch. You have to pay your dues over a period of years. That’s how most so-called “pro hunters” got started.

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Broadheads That “Fly Like A Field Point”

Darien TenBoer, Greybull, Wyoming: “I realize there are a lot of new styles and designs of fixed blade broadheads on the market, each claiming to have their own version of broadhead that “flies like a field point.” Is there any report or documentation out there to see which of these manufacturers’ broadheads actually do fly the best? I’m wondering because it’s not possible to purchase all of these to do the testing myself.”

This is one of those cases where we all tend to make things more difficult than they need to be. Virtually all of the broadheads on the market these days are built uniformly, symmetrically, balanced and consistent. Any such broadhead will fly well when shot from a well-tuned bow. If your bow is not finely tuned any broadhead will negatively impact arrow flight because you’re basically attaching wings to the front of the arrow. The larger the profile and weight of the broadhead the more that impact will be. That’s why mechanical broadheads are said to “fly like a field point.” The newest trend in broadheads is short ferrules and blades with a cut of only 1 inch or slightly more. That’s because such heads are low-profile and will fly very well withou
t the concern over blade deployment as in mechanicals. In other words, if you screw on a Rocky Mountain Ironhead 100 it will fly much better than a 170-grain Zwickey Black Diamond. If your bow is perfectly tuned both will fly well, however it has to be closer to perfect for the Zwickey to fly like a field point.

I’m always skeptical when someone tells me they couldn’t get a particular broadhead to fly at all. That tells me their bow is not tuned correctly or the offending broadhead is too heavy or too light which affects arrow spine and ultimately flight. If it’s a quality, well-built head, and most are, it should fly perfectly from a tuned bow with correctly spined arrows.

I look first at blade sharpness. Not all broadheads are as sharp as others and some use soft metal that allows the edge to roll when it hits bone. I prefer stainless or titanium construction and a strong tip on the ferrule. I’ve been shooting Barrie Archery Ti-100 heads for several years and they’ve never let me down. Larry D. Jones uses the Ironheads out of his recurve and has killed huge moose and kudu. Obviously, placement is the key to everything but you buy a broadhead based on what it can do for you when the shot isn’t perfect. They’ll all perform well on a great shot.

I don’t know of an objective list of broadhead tests that prove one head flies better than another. Some Internet websites have guys doing tests but they are often far from scientific in that they shoot heads into tires, planks, barrels and so forth. It simply isn’t possible to accurately simulate shooting an animal so it’s all speculative. That said, good flight is crucial, as you know.

That’s the long way of saying, choose a broadhead such as the various models made by Barrie, New Archery Products, Wasp, Slick Trick and others of the same design and you can expect them to “fly like a field point” if you have your bow tuned well. Let me put it another way. If you attach a Barrie Ironhead 100, for example, to your arrows and it doesn’t fly well, something is wrong with your bow and arrow set-up not the broadhead. Good arrow flight will help you in building confidence in one head, then stick with it. Good luck.

What Can We Do To Attract Deer?

J.R., Arkadelphia, Arkansas: “We own about 400 wooded acres surrounded by soybeans. That sounds ideal, but deer don’t use our land much. What can we do to attract deer and keep them on our land? Would food plots help?”

Your land probably lacks a cover component. Deer need thermal cover and refuge. I suggest you try two options: either plant conifers (pine, spruce, fir, hemlock), or create small clearcuts of, say, five acres. Clearcuts will open up the forest canopy, allowing sunlight to reach the forest floor. Seed sources that haven’t had a chance to grow because of the 100-percent canopy will naturally sprout, creating a fantastic area full of food and cover. These areas will maximize deer numbers up until the tenth year, then they will gradually decline.

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Recording Hunts With A Digital Camcorder

J.M., Lake Charles, Louisiana: “I want to start recording my hunts. I just bought a new digital camcorder but cannot figure out how to set it up. I’ve seen both the arm that mounts on the tree and a remote lens that mounts to your hat and sends a signal to your camcorder. Do you have an opinion on either of these products?”

A camera lens on your hat will ensure a lot of shaky, bad video, so I wouldn’t advise that setup. If you are trying to record over-the-shoulder kill shots from a treestand, use a treepod. You can buy them from Cabela’s and other outlets. Shooting from a ground blind, use a tripod. In both cases, you must pre-frame the video and use some method, such as scents or bait, to stop the animal in just the right position for the camera. However, taping your own hunts is not easy. For quality video, you’re far better off to hire a cameraman (or to enlist a buddy) to man the camera while you concentrate on hunting and shooting.

Do Whitetails Go Through More Than One Rut?

J.M., Kansas City, Missouri: “I’ve heard a lot of talk about whitetails going through a second rut, and I want to know if what people say is true. When does it occur? Is it worth hunting? And, do bucks chase does like they do during the November rut?”

Second and third ruts do occur, but for a hunter to notice is rare. Think of it this way — so many hunters hunt very hard during the primary rut, and except for one or two chases, they really don’t notice it’s happening. Thus, is it reasonable to assume they’ll notice the less-intense second rut or third? Although these late ruts do occur (i.e., late-born fawns), I have only witnessed a late rut while hunting on one occasion. You must also remember that when a doe goes through estrus, this takes a lot of energy. And if a doe is not bred, she’ll recycle every 28 days. In well-fed penned deer, does have extra energy to put into later estrous periods, but a wild deer could actually die if she has to put reserved winter energy into multiple estrous periods. Thus, in many parts of the country, later estrous periods in wild deer are exaggerated. Bottom line, if you have time to hunt…then hunt (second rut or not)!

What Arrows Will Perform Best?

J.E., Mound City, Kansas: “I’ve th ought about switching to a recurve bow and was wondering what arrows will perform best. Thanks.”

Virtually any type of arrow will shoot well from either a recurve or a longbow, so your arrow choice is mostly a matter of personal preference. Traditional bows are very forgiving, and will generally accept a wide selection of arrows and still shoot perfectly. Obviously, wood arrows are the most traditional choice, and many traditional bowhunters still prefer arrows of cedar, lodgepole, ash, larch, or other natural materials. I have personally shot wood arrows nearly exclusively for 30 years and love the look and feel of natural wood shafts. However, more and more bowhunters are going to man-made materials such as aluminum or carbon because of their inherent straightness and durability. The major drawback to wood is that if you shoot a lot, you will break a lot of arrows, but this is less true of alumi
num shafts and even more rare when shooting carbons. Last year I began field-testing some of the new Heritage Series Carbon Express arrows from Game Tracker, and I have been very impressed. They have the look of a wood-grain shaft, are very heavy, perfectly straight, and incredibly durable. I’ll never completely give up making and hunting with wood arrows, because I love the aesthetics of real wood, but modern shafts definitely have their place in traditional bowhunting.

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