Q
I am planning an elk hunt in Oregon this year. I need to buy some warm, waterproof clothes, but there is so much to choose from that I find myself lost in all of the advertising hype. Can you give me some suggestions on where to start?
–Bobby Jones, Cameron Park, CA

A
Here are three clothing systems that have served me well: Cabela’s (www.cabelas.com) Microtex layered with Cabela’s Outfitter’s Fleece. You can get an entire system from lightweight shirt and pants up to heavy Berber fleece jacket, pants, and hat. Add some midweight synthetic longjohns, plus MTO50 or Space Rain raingear, and you’re good to go. From Sitka (www.sitkagear.com), you’ll do well with an outfit comprising 90% Jacket and Pants, Stormfront Lite raingear, and Traverse longjohns in Gore Optifade camo. Also, Under Armour’s (www.underarmour.com) HeatGear longjohns, Ridge Reaper outerwear, and Dennison raingear will keep you going long and hard.
–Dwight Schuh, Editor

Q
While watching your TV program today, I saw a breakdown recurve bow that had an adjustable draw weight. Who makes this bow, and where can I get one?
–Jim, via e-mail

A
That is the 3Rivers Dalaa recurve. To learn more about it and to order, go to www.3RiversArchery.com.
–Brian Fortenbaugh, Assistant Editor

Q
I just viewed an episode of your TV program on which Larry D. Jones called javelina within bow range. Exciting stuff. What calls did Larry use?
–Dave Garza, via e-mail

A
Most standard predator calls will work well on javelina, but we had excellent success with Knight & Hale’s Javelina Call (knightandhale.com). I no longer own Jones Calls, but the new owners still sell the Jones Javelina Call that I designed (pointblankcalls.com).
–Larry D. Jones, TV Videographer

Q
I recently bought a BowTech and love it, but the broadheads I was using with my older bow don’t shoot as well at longer ranges. My draw length is set at 28″, draw weight at 70 lbs. The arrows are Beman ICS Camo Hunter 340s cut to 29½” and fletched with 4″ NAP QuikSpin STs. I was using Thunderhead 100s and then switched to 125s, and the arrows went wild. Living in remote Alaska, I have no one locally to turn to. Can you help me?
–Lloyd E.Thynes, Alaska<br.

A
Poor broadhead flight can be frustrating. The additional weight of the 125s weakened the spine of your arrows and changed the FOC (front of center) of your arrows. More than likely these are the root causes of your problem. If the 100s shot well, I would suggest sticking with what worked. If you want to use the 125s, try backing off the draw weight of your bow to see if arrow flight improves when you hit 63-65 lbs. draw weight. You can also try arrows with a stiffer spine.

I recommend that you study books like Tuning Your Compound Bow, by Larry Wise (www.keystonecountrystore.com and other online sites) and Balanced Bowhunting II, by Dave Holt (dhafrica@juno.com or from amazon.com).
–Jeff Frey, Contributor

Q
In relation to bowsights, I often read about 2nd axis and 3rd axis adjustments. What do these terms mean? Isn’t having a bubble level on my sight adequate?
–Ken Rushing, via e-mail

A
The concept can be confusing, but in a nutshell: 2nd axis adjustment allows you to rotate the sight assembly so the bubble reads level when you hold the bow in a perfectly vertical position. The fact is, not all sights will read level when bolted to a riser, and 2nd axis rotation makes leveling them easy. Inexpensive sights without the 2nd axis adjustment can be shimmed for leveling.

Now, 3rd axis adjustment allows you to pivot your sight housing in and out like a swinging door so it’s on a plane perfectly perpendicular to the flight of the arrow. If this adjustment is off, the bubble level will read incorrectly when you take aim at significant uphill and downhill angles.

Shooting at short ranges, say from treestands, you probably won’t find these adjustments critical. However, shooting uphill, downhill, and sidehill at longer ranges, as in stalking mule deer out West, you’ll shoot much better with a properly leveled sight. I guarantee that if you shoot at a mule deer on a steep sidehill, you will miss if you don’t heed your sight level. It’s somewhat of an optical illusion and will seem like you’re canting your bow, but you have to believe your level — IF it is correctly adjusted.
–Curt Wells, Equipment Editor

Q
I will be going to Africa in July 2010. The biggest game I will shoot is kudu and zebra. I am shooting a PSE bow set at 60 lbs. with 29″ Gold Tip Expedition Hunter arrows. I have been shooting this bow with 100-grain broadheads. Is this heavy enough for kudu, or do I need to go to a 125-grain head? What broadheads do you recommend for either weight?
–Richard Hanson, via e-mail

A
Your current equipment should be fine. I hunted Africa a few years ago and shot 100-grain broadheads out of a 70-lb. bow. I took seven animals including zebra, kudu, and gemsbok, and the 100-grain broadheads performed flawlessly. I got complete pass-throughs on all my animals except the gemsbok, and on him the arrow clipped a leg bone.

With your 60-lb. draw weight, I would recommend fixed-blade heads. African animals are thin-skinned but extremely tough. A quality broadhead like a G5 Striker, Rocky Mountain Blitz, NAP Nightmare, Slick Trick, Muzzy MX-4, and similar heads will do a great job. Find one that flies true and aim for the “V” right behind the shoulder, and you’ll do well.
–Curt Wells, Equipment Editor