Q
In buying a new bow, I am looking for a single-cam model with a machined reflex riser. I would like a brace height of 7″-71⁄2″, axle-to-axle length of 33″-37″, and a peak weight of 60 lbs. Any advice?
–Mike, via e-mail

A
Based on your parameters, I suggest you check out the Mathews Reezen. It’s an inch short of your specs but otherwise lines up well. I have one and find it very fast for a single-cam bow. The Mathews Drenalin also fits your mold. Other brands that demand a look are the PSE Bow Madness, Bear The Truth 2, Hoyt AlphaMax 35, BowTech Captain, Quest HPS33, and Martin MOAB Pro Hunter.

This list is far from comprehensive, so check local archery shops for other brands. My best advice is always to shoot various bows to see if one speaks to you. Eventually a specific bow will say just the right words and make the decision for you.
–Curt Wells, Equipment Editor

Q
I plan to buy a climbing treestand this year. In terms of safety and ease of use, what brand do you recommend?
–Rick Shaffer, Sunbury, PA

A
Always consider all the variables — total weight; packability; ease of climbing; comfort; quiet operation; price; and, above all, safety. I suggest you list the features most important to you and then check out various brands until you find one that best matches your needs.

Summit (www.summitstands.com), Lone Wolf (www.lonewolfstands.com), Gorilla (www.gorillatreestands.com), Ol’ Man (www.olmanoutdoors.com), Ameristep (www.ameristep.com), and API (www.apioutdoors.com) all make excellent climbers. Check out the websites for these and other manufacturers. In particular, look for the TMA (Treestand Manufacturer’s Association) logo. You can count on TMA-certified stands to be well-made and safe.

Foremost, always wear and use a full-body safety harness from the moment you leave the ground until you return to the ground. That’s true for all stands, including climbers. It’s the only way to ensure absolute safety.
–Jeff Frey, Online Gear Advisor

Q
I read two schools of thought on computing an arrow’s FOC (Forward of Center) balance point. One method measures the entire assembled arrow from the end of the nock to the tip of the head. The other measures from the nock groove to the end of the finished arrow, excluding the head. In both, the weight of the head would be included in the calculation. Which method do you think is correct?
–Bernie, via e-mail

A
I can’t imagine using only the arrow shaft as the length component in FOC calculations. Broadheads can measure 2″ or longer, and this length can significantly influence arrow balance. So I believe it is correct to use total length of the finished hunting arrow. With that said, don’t get too hung up on FOC. In my opinion, FOC should fall between 8 and 15 percent. If your arrows fall anywhere within that range, they should fly just fine.
–Curt Wells, Equipment Editor

Q
I just had surgery on my left shoulder. I shoot a Hoyt Oasis at 65 lbs., right-handed, with fingers. Drawing with my right arm won’t be a problem but holding my bow up could be. I assume my annual elk bowhunt in September is off. Any suggestions on therapy that would help keep me in the game?
–Kevin Snyder, via e-mail

A
It sounds as if you have about five months between surgery and elk season. Based on my experience following rotator cuff surgery, I think you probably could be shooting a bow by September, although you might have to make some concessions.

First, you don’t have to shoot 65 lbs. draw weight to kill elk. Using fixed-blade broadheads, I’ve shot numerous elk and moose with bows of 50-55 lbs. draw weight with deadly results. Ladies and young archers shooting even lighter bows consistently kill elk cleanly.

Second, try a lighter-mass-weight bow. Even a few ounces make a huge difference to your shoulder. Compact modern bows weigh less than most long fingers bows. To shoot a short, light bow, you’ll probably have to switch to a release aid, but that seems like a small price to stay in the game.

Finally, have a physical therapist outline a regimen of exercises, and do them diligently. To gain strength faster, get a Bowfit Archery Exerciser. It includes a list of exercises prescribed by a licensed physical therapist. Contact: Bowfit, 1-888-757-5541, bowfit@juno.com, www.bowfit.com.

If all this fails, try shooting with one arm and a mouth tab. You would hold the bow in your right hand, and draw the string with your teeth. I shot this way for a season, and many archers do it their entire lives. It’s not hard, but you would have to get a left-handed bow with a draw length about three inches shorter than your normal draw length. For details on shooting with one arm, contact: Drew McCartney, (785) 637-5421, macs@gorhamtel.com.
–Dwight Schuh, Editor

Q
I’ve always shot a pendulum sight, but it makes noise when I shoot my bow. Is there any particular sight you would recommend?
–Dale Golds, via e-mail

A
You don’t say what type of hunting you do, but I would recommend a fixed-pin sight with three to five pins. Any sight with moving parts has the potential for making noise.

With fixed pins, just aim a little low on close-range shots at sharp downward angles. Practice is the best way to determine just how low you need to aim. To be more precise, use an angle-compensating rangefinder to determine exact “aiming” yardage to your target.
–Curt Wells, Equipment Editor