Tactics For Paper-Tuning Your Bow

by Aaron Decker • June 28, 2011 • 5 comments

In this Dead On Segment, Randy Ulmer gives tactics for paper-tuning your bow and provides insight on how it will make you a better shooter.

In Bowhunter TV, Video • Tagged , ,

5 Responses

  1. Gerry

    Verry good advise,Keep up the good worck..Gerry…

    On June 29, 2011 at 4:20 am • Reply
  2. Bob Musssey

    Keep Randy Ulmer info on shooting tips, bow tuning coming.

    Good info,

    Bob

    On June 30, 2011 at 10:42 am • Reply
  3. Brian Schreber

    I find your paper tuning video interesting, however, it seems to be at odds with the philosophy Fred Eichler(traditional editor) provides in the July issue while STILL agreeing pretty much with Easton's tuning guide and other things I have read. Some points of concern / suggestions:

    1) it seems lots of paper tuning instructors like to use 5 or six feet distance. Fred is one, my other sources agree. You, however, cut it back to 3 or 4 feet. The two local bow shops around this large metro area(twin cities) use only 2 to 3 feet to start and then call it "good". No further testing at greater distances– which you, at least, suggest. They also do not understand the concepts Fred illutrstates regarding apparent arrow stiffness and jump to moving the arrow rest immediately. It seems to me someone should develop a reliable protocol that is more consistent and reliable and provides greater detail.

    2) Speaking of reliable, Fred suggest adjusting your "apparent" arrow spine, seemingly first before playing with the arrow rest. However, he does not even mention adjusting the arrow rest. I don't understand his omitting this when this is the predominant protocol used in paper tuning. HIS advice actually makes the most sense to me. Why? Because it probably gets to the source of the problem rather than masking it. Moving the arrow rest probably corrects the problem nicely when only a couple feet away because the arrow is just starting its first vibrational bend. It should not take much arrow rest adjustment to move it back straight. However, when you move out to 10 to 20 ft you will catch it in subsequent vibrational phases but no one seems to want to bother checking out at distance.

    3) You folks should do a good study / experiment combining high speed photography, paper tuning at different distances and the effects of adjusting ONLY the apparent arrow stiffness OR arrow rest!

    Let's resolve this!

    thanks.

    On July 10, 2011 at 7:30 pm • Reply
  4. Brian Lehner

    I agree with Randy Ulmer. Paper tuning should be as the arrow comes out of the bow. Going further down range seems to defeat the purpose, if the arrow itself can correct itself. Energy lost? It seems the practice of doing this just seems to be a time saver. I agree with Brian that I would like to see more time devoted to figuring out what stiffness should be used along with arrow rests.

    On July 11, 2011 at 3:07 am • Reply
  5. John Matuturani

    I agree,paper tunng is a must especaially if it's your hunting bow. You can get a field point to fly well in a bow thats not too out of tune. However, a bow that's not paper tuned is going to give you problems when shooting broadheads. The pro shops in my area don't want to paper tune,and I believe that's because they can't. This is a real art. there's more to it then just moving the rest and nock point.

    I don't believe that the manufacture's teach this to there dealers. In my opinion this is a critical part to their instruction. I know this email isn't really going anywhere,but if you have a voice get it to the manufactures.

    On July 12, 2011 at 5:55 pm • Reply